El Mercado Santa Clara

The Mercado Santa Clara is one of the bigger markets in Ayacucho. It is located in between Jiron Grau and 28 de Julio, just down the street from my old house, and just down the hill and around the corner from my new home in Carmen Alto. I think the only bigger market in the Ayacucho Valley is the one that receives all ofthe fruits and vegetables that are imported. That is where all of the people who sell things, like fruit and vegetables, in Santa Clara go to buy in bulk. So, back to Santa Clara. The name comes from the Catholic Cathedral and monastery that is across the street. It is one of the 33 major ¨anitgua¨churches/cathedrals found in the city. There is one on the way to Carmen Alto that is from the 1530´s. I guess this does not include the plethora of evangelical churches in the area. Sort of Peru´s own Holy City (look out Charleston, SC!). I am told that on the morning of Easter Sunday, those 33 churches all begin ringing their bells at sunrise, following a 4 a.m. candlelight processional. Again, I digress, back to the market. Santa Clara is made up of several mercados smushed together. There is 12 de Abril, which is mainly domestic goods, clothing, and shoes, then there is mercado San Fransisco, becasue of its proximity to the Arc de Triumph (arco San Fransisco) and the Cathedral bearing the same name. San Fransisco is hooked onto the back of the Mercado Santa Clara. This where the meat market is. I think the live cows arrive in the morning becasue there is ¨evidence¨ that they were there (wink wink!). Usually I try to run through this part because it smells funky, and the sound of butcher blocks and humongo knives does not exactly entice me to chat it up with anyone here. I do want you to know that you can buy ALL parts of a chicken, sheep, cow, or pig rest assured. Some of my friends are still wanting me to try an Ayacuchano delicacy, Caldo de Cabeza or cow head (face too) soup. So far I have managed to avoid it, but not the ingredients staring you down in the meat market, as I sprint by. Sometimes someone gets in my and it slowss me down. AHHH!!! The meat market is sandwiched in by bread sales. Wua-wau´s, roscitos, Frances, and chapla. Little bags, big ones, you choose. The women sit with these big wooden crates, a plastic bag in one hand, and another bag covering the hand they grab their bread with (how hygenic!). BREAD IN AYACUCHO IS SO WONDERFUL AND UNIQUE!!! I think besides potatoes it is one of the gastronomical things that I will miss the most. Gastronomia here is what we call culinary. Beyond the bread and meat there are some stalls that sell artesinal items or handicrafts. Everything from hand woven blankets and mantas, to retablos (hand carved scenes that depict daily life), hats, skirts, scarves, spoons, you name it!! Finally, before you hit the street are the juice stalls. Stop in for a surtido, which is a mix of juices...my favorite is carrot, beet, alfalfa, and a smidgen of piña or apple for sweetness. AHHHH!!! There are wings off of Santa Clara, like to the left is shoe paradise. They all sell the same shoes at pretty much the same prices. I guess you just have to make friends with someone who is willing to negotiate. Something I have learned is that copyright laws do notseem to translate to Peru. I can buy shoes that look like Nikes, Puma or Adidas (but do not feel like them). Music and movies are another one. I can get a copy of the latest Hollywood blockbuster for $1, and no noone even gets up to get popcorn and a drink in the middle of it. Granted you take your chances with the copy you get. Along the backside of these markets, on Avenida 28 de Julio, toward the right end are the fruit and vegetable stalls. For yards, apples, oranges, bananas, lucma, maracuya, grapes OH MY!! This is where it is fun to check out all the different variety of potatoes. There will be something like 7 large 100 lb burlap bags in a stall and sittting in the middle of them is usually a little women who say ¨¿Que quieres mama?. The variety of Peruvian potato is fascinating. See other entries on that. The markets in Peru are usually organized by what they sell with all the shoes in one area, craft supplies in another, and meat in another, but every once in while you run across a stray DVD stall or find a juice booth mixed in. I love to go to the market and just walk around. The sites, sounds, and well yes even the smells are interesting.